메탈램프175W

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작성자다이아 조회 220회 작성일 2021-10-24 15:40:47 댓글 0

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Ceramic Metal Halide lamps, 메탈할라이드 램프 구조 및 원리, 메탈할라이드 램프, 메탈할라이드 안정기, 방전등 원리, 메탈할라이드 구조, 세라믹램프

#메탈할라이드 #Ceramic_Metal_Halide_lamps #메탈할라이드_램프
June07 : 안정기가 필요하는 이유가 뭐지요?

Cooper Lighting 175W metal halide fixture, first look + ballsy first test

Found this neat thing at the ReStore. Let's try it for the first time, without any tools on hand or any way to make sure the electrical components and wiring are okay.
Techmatt167 : It's okay. I used to be intimidated by metal halide when. I was younger. But you'll get over it eventually. Those type if fixtures are prone to having the bulbs explode because the bulb is working at a horizontal position, making the arc inside the lamp hit the side of the arc tube making life shorter and increasing the risk of it blowing up. That's why there is a really thick glass on it. If you have everything covering the bulb properly there will be no danger to you or anything in the surroundings.
TheSOXMania : Yeah. MH lamps can be a tiny bit explosive if you aren't careful. On the bright side, the lamps actually have a partial vacuum inside them when cold so you can throw them against a wall and they won't explode, they just shatter and the arc tubes tend to remain intact.

When they're hot they are under a lot of pressure, just like any other discharge lamp at >800*c. the internal pressure can be as high as 200 bar. This is why if one explodes it can be violent.

Anyway, when it comes to metal halides exploding, the reason for it is because the lamp is extremely worn and has been run through a lot of switch cycles. This can be accelerated if the lamp is burned horizontally as opposed to vertically (base up or down, doesn't matter for a UBP (universal burn position) lamp). You don't have a lot to worry about here.

Plus, in the event a lamp does decide to go kaboom on you, that glass casing will protect you. I didn't have that with my first of 2 metal halide desk light designs (vid on my channel of making that btw). I had a 35w GE ConstantColour 930 G12 lamp (I still strike this one in open air because it makes some interesting colours as it warms up) in a small desk lamp housing with no glass covers or anything and happily ran that until I could afford to go with a higher wattage, higher CRI lamp. The one I have now is in what's meant to be a halogen floodlight but now runs with a remote ballast. The lamp is a Philips MasterColour CDM-TD 70w/942, which is a double-ended lamp with a horizontal burn position. These lamps are well known for exploding at the end of life as their arc tubes have to bare the brunt of multiple attacks form both the halide salts and the arc. The halide salts react slowly with the walls of the arc tube and alongside heat cycling weaken its structure, and accelerating that is the arc, which likes to rise with its own heat and touch the arc tube wall. But still, I'm fairly comfortable with nothing more than an 8th inch glass shield as a kind of "in the rare event" type of deal. I've run the light with the front cover dropped for extended periods of time before and not been afraid the lamp was gonna go kaboom on me. In-part because it's a brand new lamp but also because I'm not all that scared of halide lamps. I never was despite knowing the risks of running an unprotected lamp in open air because I have always used healthy lamps.

On a final note. The lamp you have looks like it's been well used but not totally worn out and is in great condition. It's perfectly safe to use as it is and even in open air. Heck, I'd strike that light up without the cover on and not be afraid of it exploding despite the lamp being used. Could just be because I'm completely freaking bonkers but still... it's a safe lamp as it is. If it was worn the entire tube would be black and it would have a strong green tint and poor light output. Similar to how a mercury vapour's light output and colour shifts as it ages, only in the instance of a metal halide, it also increases the internal pressure to insanely high levels because more heat is reflected back into the lamp by the deposits that land on the arc tube wall.
Kegan : I have yet to see that type of lamp up close like that.
And I thought a light fixture that can be powered by an outlet was only 150W Max.
Regarding a cord being placed in the cord -- not that I recommend this, but when my dad bought a used Kenmore microwave from November 1994 at a thrift store in February 2013, he used the some of the parts inside.
When the side part of the microwave with the seven segment clock display was removed, there was an idea I may have thought of -- a power adapter that has
two holes was used. The power leads for the clock display were inserted into
the adapter's holes. I wasn't sure if the clock would work again, but it did.
The area with the leads in the adapter was taped up.
Loudspeaker Tests & More By Aidan Shane Wade : If I had this fixture, I would install it on my ceiling and use it as a ceiling light
FirestoneVlogs : And the bulb and ballast are fine, the bulb is slightly worn, maybe a year of slight use (few hours per night), and the ballast seems like it has ran alot of bulbs in the past, but overall, that lamp is a keeper, I kind of wish I had one.

175 watt Metal Halide to Corn Cob LED conversion retrofit

175w metal halide to corn cob LED conversion including some bulb selection considerations including lumens, wattage and color. Be sure to note whether the LED bulb you select is suitable for horizontal installation because some bulbs must be installed with the base in the up (top) position.
Creative Life : good work
johnmccomb43 : Wrong bulb for that fixture
That is an interior bulb
xskizzl3x : Wanted to see the wiring hookup with the photo sensor
Frank : Stick with the normal design of the fixture, and just buy another 175 watt bulb.........(simple)......the problem is that the stupid government is fazing out these bulbs, and forcing us to buy these new led's which I think is ridiculous, not to mention stupid, without any warning. (MY ADVICE),.....buy at least a case of 175 watt MH bulbs, while you still can, on e-bay. I bought a case of 10 for 54.00.= (5.40 per bulb) DO IT!!
DJMinor5000 : You are not getting the full lumen output of the bulb out of the fixture because it looks like more than half of the LED arrays are facing towards the inside back of the fixture. I doubt the reflectors are helping any because the bulb is so large it probably blocks most of the reflected light from reflector. I have seen these lamps installed in outdoor parking lot fixtures around where I live, and have seen many premature lamp failures with these products. The way I see it, these are just an interim solution until real LED fixtures are available at competitive prices, which is already happening now.

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